I love going back to the motherland.
Every time, I get super nostalgic, reminiscing about my early childhood, wondering what my life would look like if I’d grown up in Poland instead of Australia. And I think that had we stayed there, I’d probably be living in Poznań (I was born about 30 km from here, in a town called Śrem).
We spent a week in Poznań, following my cousin’s wedding. And we had a ball. It’s one of Poland’s larger cities and fast becoming the gateway for expats and international uni students to live in an exciting, uber-metro city.
Poznań takes the cake when it comes to Polish cities. (Pipe down Warsaw you’re a bit of a concrete jungle, Krakow - you’re nice but stacked with tourists). It’s like the youngest sibling, having learnt from the older, larger cities what works and is now kicking big-city butt. Sort of like Kylie Jenner, in a non-trashy, more classy kinda way.
I may be biased when it comes to Poznań, but here’s why it should be on your bucket list.
Stary Rynek (Old Town Market Square)
It’s no secret Europe is full of “Old Town” squares, usually made up of a church, traditional restaurants, bars serving local beers and a market in the middle.
The Stary Rynek in Poznań is honestly the prettiest of them all. The snow white of old towns, if you will. It’s the medieval heart of the city with original facades that were once merchant stalls still intact, each one exquisitely painted.
From one of the many Polish restaurants that line the square, you can be treated to a hearty dish such as pierogi (Polish dumplings), goulash (beef stew) or zurek (soup that comes in a big bread roll. Wash them down with a pint of Lech (Poznań’s local lager) and watch the locals and tourists alike come out to play in the vibrant square.
Koziołki Poznańskie (the goats of Poznań)
Every day, there’s a show in the beautifully restored renaissance style town hall at the Stary Rynek. At exactly 12 noon, two wooden goats come out and have it off with each other. The affair lasts around 5 minutes but it’s a tradition that spans hundreds of years and still draws crowds like you wouldn’t believe.
The legend behind the story dates back to the 16th century when the town hall was being expanded. On the day of the official opening ceremony, the chef preparing the Mayor’s feast accidentally ruined the roast venison. So, he sent his young sous-chef to find some game. The boy found two tiny white goats by the river Warta and bundled them up in his sack, bringing them back to the kitchen.
Unfortunately for him, the squirmy goats managed to get out of the sack, running all the way up the tower. The Mayor found this very amusing, commissioning local craft makers to build a representation of the event.
PS: The goats weren’t harmed, but returned to their owner. They have become symbols of the city, so you can expect to see a lot of them around.
Stary Browar
What was once the Huggerów Brewery is now home to eastern Europe’s largest shopping, arts and business centres. A combination of retail space and an art gallery, it has preserved its original architecture and style. Spending a leisurely 3 hours here is easy. Peruse the floors shopping or enjoy a meal or a cocktail in any one of the epical bars or restaurants.
Royal Castle
The history behind this 13th-century castle spans centuries, with tales of war, royal weddings and legendary stories. One tells how the castle was created by dark powers and another of the mysterious death of Ludgarda, wife of Przemysł II who was found strangled in her bedroom in 1283. Her husband was blamed for the murder because the duchess couldn’t give him a son. It is said that the ghost of Ludgarda walks the chambers of the Royal Castle.
A few other points…
The Food Scene
The food scene in Poznań was really impressive. As much as we’d have loved to tuck into pierogi every day, we also wanted to try the cities other fine cuisines. In any neighbourhood, you can expect to find some great cafes, restaurants and pop-ups. But our favourite was a restaurant called Oskoma where we went with my gorgeous cousin Paulina and her husband.
We also encountered some of the best coffee in Europe from an uber cool, hipsterish coffee truck stationed just outside the Stary Rynek.
Where to stay
While there’s no shortage of gorgeous hotels in the city, for a more authentic experience I’d opt for an Airbnb. We got a sweet Scandinavian style, super spacious incredible apartment right in the heart of old town Poznań for $40 a day. Yerrp.
Best time to go
Classically European, Poland gets quite cold in the winter so the Spring or Summer months are ideal. As with most cities, Poznań is prettier in the sun. Especially the colourfully painted buildings of the old town and its surroundings. Look at going between May and September.
